A Young Mind Blown: Murano and Burano

(There are many cities that are ‘must visits’ in a lifetime. Florence and Jaipur top my  now long list. On it are the Venetian islands of Murano and Burano).

Pages from my Diary…. 1980s

Arrival and Awe

As I sailed through the Venetian Lagoon today, the sun painted the water with shimmering reflections, my heart raced. Ahead, Murano and Burano glimmered like jewels on the horizon—two islands so close to Venice, yet brimming with their own unique stories. As a creative person with a rich imagination, I’m always on the lookout for places that spark inspiration, and these islands promised exactly that.

Murano—The Island of Glass

Murano. The name itself feels ancient, carrying the weight of history. Derived from the Latin ‘murus’, meaning wall, it reflects the island’s early days as a fortified settlement. But today, Murano is synonymous with one thing: glass. 

I stepped off the water taxi and was immediately engulfed by the warmth emanating from the glass furnaces. This island, where glassmaking has been the heartbeat for over a thousand years, felt alive with history. Back in 1291, when the Venetian Republic ordered all glassmakers to relocate to Murano, it wasn’t just about protecting Venice from potential fires. It was a move that would turn this small island into the world’s glassmaking capital.

Walking through the narrow streets, I was captivated by the vibrant glass creations in every shop window. The artisans here are more than craftsmen—they’re alchemists, transforming sand into dazzling works of art. Their secrets have been passed down through generations, so valuable that the glassmakers were once forbidden from leaving Murano. Their skills were protected like treasures, and in return, they were granted privileges that most artisans could only dream of—like marrying into Venetian nobility.

Hand blown decanter with gold flakes 

The Renaissance saw Murano glass reach heights of prestige, coveted by royalty and collectors across Europe. Yet, Murano’s story isn’t just one of endless success. In the 18th century, competition from other European glass centers threatened its dominance. But Murano’s artisans didn’t back down. They evolved, blending time-honored techniques with modern innovation, ensuring that Murano glass remains at the pinnacle of the craft.

Burano—The Island of Lace and Color

After the intensity of Murano, Burano welcomed me like a breath of fresh air. If Murano is defined by fire and glass, Burano is all about color and lace. The name Burano likely comes from ‘Boreana’, linked to Boreas, the god of the north wind, a nod to the island’s exposed position in the lagoon. But as I stepped onto Burano, I was greeted by something far more charming than its mythic origin: a kaleidoscope of colorful houses.

These vibrant homes weren’t always so bright. The legend goes that Burano’s fishermen began painting their houses in bright colors so they could spot them from afar as they returned home through the thick fog that often blankets the lagoon. The colors helped them navigate their way back to safety, and over time, this practical tradition became an expression of the island’s unique identity.

But Burano isn’t just about its stunning colors. It’s also the home of some of the world’s most intricate lace. Burano lace, dating back to the 16th century, became famous for its ‘punto in aria’ —“stitch in the air”—a technique so delicate it almost defies belief. Watching the women of Burano create these lace masterpieces was mesmerizing. Their fingers moved with the precision of a skilled painter, each stitch a brushstroke on a canvas of thread.

Just like Murano’s glassmakers, the lace artisans of Burano faced their own challenges. The rise of cheaper, machine-made lace in the 18th century nearly wiped out the craft. But Burano’s artists didn’t let their tradition die. In 1872, a lace-making school was founded, reviving the art and preserving Burano’s place in history.

Reflection—A Shared Legacy of Craft and Color

As I prepare to leave these islands, I can’t help but reflect on the stories they’ve shared with me. Murano and Burano, though different in their crafts, are united in their dedication to preserving their heritage. These islands have weathered the storms of industrialization and globalization, standing firm in their commitment to craft and color.

For me, Murano and Burano hold more significance than just being tourist spots; they are a source of constant inspiration for me. These islands embody the strength of tradition, the value of preserving cultural heritage, and the beauty that can arise from even the simplest things - a wall, a gust of wind, a fiery passion, a splash of color. As I make my way back to Venice, the vibrant colors of Burano's charming houses and the dazzling glassworks of Murano linger in my mind, leaving behind a vivid palette that will continue to inspire me long after I have left the lagoon behind.

PS Did you know that Burano has a leaning bell tower, much like the Tower of Pisa? The island's only square features a church with a tower that tilts due to the sinking foundations beneath it.